Ten Observations About Portland…From a Newbie to the City.
I’m spending 5 weeks in Portland this winter as part of my quest to “try-on” new cities to figure out where I want to live. Here are my observations of the city, about ten days in to my time here.
Looking to plan your own trip or move to Portland, Oregon? Check out Skyscanner for flight deals and TripAdvisor: Portland for activity ideas. Just be sure you’re flying to Portland, Oregon, not Portland, Maine. I’ve personally spoken with someone who made that mistake. (Wasn’t me. Seriously!)
1. What’s Traffic Planning?
It’s been just over a week and I feel like I’ve been on every damn road in Portland and it’s not because I’ve left by southeast neighborhood that often. It’s because when I do, I get lost. And even when I am not lost, I get confused.
I’ll take responsibility for some of my meanderings and uncertainty. I don’t know the city and I do use Apple maps (Google fans: I know, I know). But some of my 15 minute trips turned into 45 minute trips have been because the traffic patterns here are…well, weird.
Three way stops, blind turns, merges without a merge lane, left hand merges followed by immediately by right hand merges, turns where it’s difficult to tell what lane you are supposed to be turning onto…sometimes because there are multiple options, signs indicating new traffic patterns with no additional guidance, surprise 180-turns with no speed limit change sign, hand written directional signs, sudden road splits, and you know, that kind-of thing.
2. Character and Characters.
You may not like Portland but you can’t say it doesn’t have character. Everything about this city seems to have personality from the buildings to the activities to the people.
The architecture ranges from uber-modern to the cutest, creatively painted arts and crafts style homes. There are activities – like “ecstatic dance,” where you just move in silence to music, with no guidance, for an hour and half with tens to dozens of other participants – that would seem “weird,” elsewhere but are completely mainstream within the boundaries of PDX. The people are likewise an eclectic set of characters.
3. Two Wheels Are Better Than Four.
There are a lot of bikers here. A LOT of bikers. Some bike for enjoyment, exercise, or convenience, others because of the negative environmental impacts of driving.
4. Urban “Camping” Abounds.
There are a lot of homeless people in Portland. Scratch that, I don’t actually know the numbers, but there appear to be a lot of homeless people in Portland because it is overt. Empty lot between houses? There are two tents propped up there. Grassy area next to the road? Some make-shift “structure” permanently docked there.
There also appear to be (relatively) a lot of people who partake in the slightly more sheltered version of urban “camping”: van-lifers. I’ve seen both variants of van-lifers, the by choice and the not by choice types. I should note that it is also likely that I notice van-lifers more following my #CRVlife (van-life in my CRV) stint.
From talking to people, it sounds like the homeless population’s visible set-ups are tolerated more than other cities and this tolerance is in part, because there are a larger than average number of advocates for the homeless in the community.
Unfortunately, my observations have been that there appear to be quite a few aggressive homeless people – but that could be skewed by the fact that I got yelled at my one in the middle of the day on a street that I otherwise looked like somewhere I’d enjoy exploring.
5. This. Is. Your. Sign.
People in Portland love a good sign in their yard or storefront window. The most popular signs seem to focus on positive vibes and inclusivity. I can get behind that.
6. Nice, but Not Bubbly.
People in Portland are nice, but not bubbly. It’s not the yell-at strangers with zero f*cks given vibe of NYC, but its also not the make eye contact and nod or say “hello” to strangers on the street vibe of St. Augustine, Florida.
There are a few hipsters who are cooler than you, but overall, my experience with people in Portland has been positive. People are less likely to initiate conversation than in some other locales, but if you initiate, most are really friendly and happy to engage.
7. I Can’t See You.
Portland is not particularly well-lit at night. People tend to dress in darker colors with the occasional super bright pop of color, usually found in jackets and boots. It rains a lot. All this amounts to poor night visibility. Fortunately, bikers tend to use their lights and cars drive pretty slowly giving time to identify pedestrians.
8. Foodie Town.
I expected Portland to be all about the coolest coffee shops and vegan food. And there are in fact, plenty of those types of establishments, but there is also a lot more to the food and drink scene. It’s quite a foodie town.
Within a few miles of where I’m staying, there’s an eastern european restaurant, three Thai restaurants, a modern Indian fast casual eatery, multiple coffee shops, a dark, dimly lit bar, a trendy line-out-the-door brunch spot, a craft cocktail bar, a sliders joint, a Texas style taco shop…and a whole lot more.
9. There is a Uniform.
All you need are waterproof boots and a rain jacket. Mix in a few different jackets and boots if you want to get spunky.
10. Everyone Talks About the Weather.
Everyone wants to talk about Portland weather. The number one question I’ve gotten from people outside of Portland is “How is the weather?” My answer: It’s not that bad…you know, since I have my rain boots and jacket. (Seriously, would be pretty miserable in wet feet and top.) Yes, it has rained every day and it has been largely gray, but it’s not the downpour rain of the east coast and it’s not the freezing cold temperatures of Colorado. I’m sure 9 months of this would wear on me, but right now, it’s a nice change and a good excuse to cozy up and stay in with a good book.
People who live here likewise like to talk about the weather – and the view of it varies greatly. In one evening I chatted with two different people with wildly different opinions. The first, a guy who moved here from Hawaii, had nothing but bad things to say about the weather, other than that it is conducive to sleep. The second, a guy that moved here from Chicago, laughed at Portland’s comparatively very mild winters.
BONUS: Southeast is the BEST!
I ended up in the southeast area of Portland because I found a cute AirBnB basement apartment and my quick Google search indicated the neighborhood was probably safe. I LUCKED OUT! This area is the perfect fit for me.
The neighborhood itself is quiet, walkable, and finding street parking is easy-peasy. Yet, I’m walking distance to Division Street which has ample cute coffee shops, restaurants, shops, bars, and of course, fitness studios. I love where I’m at so much that I added on another 10-days in Portland at a different AirBnB in the southeast area.